Here are the basic steps you will follow in setting up a new RainWise business. (Note: ‘$’ indicates there is a fee for this step).

Click on the flowchart below to see a visual of this process.

How to Start your RainWise Business Flowchart

Establish your business entity:  

1. Research & Develop your company name 
   • Conduct a WA Corporation Search 
   • Verify name is not US trademarked 
   • Develop your ‘Doing Business As’ or DBA names (if applicable)  
2. Register with the IRS 
   • Apply for your Employer Identification Number (EIN)  
3. Find a Registered Agent ($)  
4. File with the WA Secretary of State ($)  
   • Create your business entity, and receive your certificate of formation
   • Receive your Unified Business Identifier (UBI number)  

Establish business finance and insurance:  

1. Open a business bank account – you will need your EIN and UBI numbers for this 
2. Establish a line of credit or small business loan if applicable.  
3. Purchase liability insurance ($)  
4. Purchase Contractor Surety Bonding ($) 

Get business licenses

1. Register with the Washington State Department of Revenue (DOR)  
   • Create/Use a Secure Access Washington (SAW) account 
   • Apply for a WA State business license ($)  
   • Apply for trade names/DBAs (if applicable)  
   • Use your DOR account for filing excise taxes 
2. Register with the Washington Sate Department of Labor and Industries (L&I) 
   • Create your L&I account 
   • Register as a contractor (general or specialty) ($) 
3. Register with the Washington State Employment Security Department (ESD) 
   • Receive your ESD number 
4. Register with the City of Seattle ($)  
   • Receive your city business license  

Market your business (optional)

1. Purchase a web domain name(s) ($) 
2. Build and publish your websites ($) 
3. Set up social media and online directory accounts if desired  

Complete the RainWise onboarding process

1. Complete online training modules 
2. Complete a site tour 
3. Complete the RainWise online contractor form 
4. Send required documentation to RainWise team:  
   • Washington State contractor license 
   • City of Seattle business license 
   • Completed W9 form 

This free guide outlines the steps for starting and operating a business in the state of Washington. It provides links to valuable resources, and is available in ten languages.   

Check out the Small Business Guide

The Ventures Business Basics Course provides the financial training entrepreneurs need to make sure their business can go from a dream, to a sustainable reality. This eight-part series highlights some of our course offerings on financial responsibility and how you can make your business financially stable. 

Check out the Ventures Business Basics Course

Estimating your project costs

How can you estimate costs for RainWise projects?   

It can be tricky to figure out what these projects will cost up front. You will need to get a sense of the cost of supplies, as well as your likely time and labor costs. Some of our experienced contractors have shared the following tips:   

• When preparing quotes, you can use online shopping carts at large companies (e.g. Lowe’s or Home Depot) to estimate your likely material costs. Simply add items you think you will need to your cart and then see what the total figure looks like. Try out different scenarios and add in a buffer for extra or unexpected material costs. This will give you a rough cost estimate to consider, even if you plan to buy parts elsewhere later.   
• For estimating volumes of soil, mulch and gravel, check out this tool from the Dirt Exchange. It can help you visualize and calculate what you will need and consider how to best transport these bulky materials. 
• Estimating your labor and time requirements takes practice. If you are new to RainWise installations, you should give yourself a large buffer to work with in your budget. There is always something that takes longer than expected. Some contractors double or triple their initial time estimates depending on the complexity of the project. It never hurts to give yourself wiggle room and it’s always great to come in under budget. 

Invoicing guidance

What is an invoice and what does it need to include?  

An invoice is your formal record of work completed and a request for payment from a client.  

You may use your own template for your invoice. An ‘itemized’ invoice clearly separates out the costs for different installation components and services. We recommend always using itemized invoices as this helps a client understand what they are paying for. 

We recommend including the following information in the header of your invoice:  

• Your company name and contact information 
• Your client’s name and contact information 
• A unique invoice number. This helps everyone properly track payments for accounting purposes.  
• The invoice date. 
• The total payment due and due date 
• Project numbers, if you use them 
• You can also include a brief description of the work completed. This could include a project completion date, the address of the site, the roof area captured and the project rebate calculated. 

We recommend including the following in the body of your invoice:  

• A table that breaks down the costs of the project. Each ‘line item’ should include a description of the project component, the quantity, unit cost and total. The way you group different project costs is up to you and what makes the most sense for your project.  
• At a minimum you should have separate line items for material costs and labor. Many contractors provide detailed invoices that separate out individual components, such as specific piping pieces, fittings, volume of soil or gravel, plants etc.   
• For complex installations, it is good practice to group costs around specific installation components. For example, an installation that includes a rain garden and a cistern should have separate sections in the invoice that detail the materials and labor required for each of these components. 
• Finally, the invoice should show the sub total, sales tax, and the total invoice amount.  
• If the project rebate will not cover the full cost of the project, you should also subtract the rebate amount and indicate the remaining out of pocket costs. 
• If the client has paid some portion up front (e.g. a deposit), you should also show this and subtract it from the total. You can include a row for ‘Amount Due Now’ to indicate outstanding costs.  
• Finally, include a footer with your terms for payment and penalties for late payments. 

How to document and itemize costs in your RainWise rebate packet?   

While you can use your own format for your invoice, you will need to attach a detailed Invoice Cost Breakdown. This form can be found in the Contractor Reference Packet.

Please attach this to your regular invoice as part of the rebate package. This allows you to invoice your client according to your existing billing template while allowing us to be accountable to our ratepayers. Only items directly related to the function of a rain garden or cistern installation should be included on your invoice and this accompanying form. 

Tax guidance for landscaping and horticulture services

• Tax guidance in English
• Guía en español: Cómo declarar los Impuestos sobre Servicios de Jardinería y Horticultura

Promote your business through RainWise outreach and tabling events.

The RainWise program organizes a number of regular customer outreach events. These events are your chance to connect directly with homeowners already interested in RainWise. Here’s what to expect and how to prepare for each event:  

• Information Sessions feature a staff presentation, a customer testimonial, and Q&A, followed by time for homeowners to meet directly with contractors. Please bring materials that showcase your work, such as portfolios, business cards, or signup sheets, to help customers follow up. 

• Webinars include a staff presentation, Q&A, and breakout rooms where contractors rotate to meet attendees. Please prepare visuals such as photos or site plans to share virtually during these sessions. 
• Tabling events are informal opportunities to connect with customers. Contractors staff a table with materials, answer questions, and provide clear information so attendees can easily reach them. You should bring business cards or some other hand out for your business, and you can also take down information of attendees you speak with and follow up with them after these events.  

Promote your RainWise business online  

The easiest way to promote your business online is through your profile on the RainWise website. If you choose to participate in contractor matchmaking, we will use your profile information to match you with potential customers.  

Business social media accounts are also a natural place to start, but consider the following before you develop your online presence:  

• Receiving messages online is like getting a phone call. Do you have time to monitor and respond to queries on this platform?  
• Updating your social media accounts is a time commitment. You may want to start with one and see how it goes before adding more.  
• Do you want an online presence where customers can post publicly about their experience working with you? The benefit is you can ask happy customers for online recommendations. The challenge is that you may need to respond thoughtfully to complaints.  

Here are some of the most common ways you can promote your business online:  

• Google – Do you want to have control over how your business shows up when searched in Google? Here’s how to add/claim your business listing on Google

• Facebook – Do you want to build an online community interested in your business, build brand awareness, promote events, etc? Here’s how to set up a Facebook business page

• LinkedIn – Do you want to build and manage your professional network, attract new employees and attract commercial work? You can create a personal profile or a business LinkedIn page. Here’s how to set up a LinkedIn business page

• Yelp and Next Door – Do you want to track & respond to customer reviews, promote your website/social media, and even advertisethrough popular online directories? Here’s how to claim your business on Yelp | Here’s how to Create a free business page on Next Door

Location considerations

Here are some things to consider: 

• Where do you have the best yard space? Pay close attention to setbacks, including basement and rockery/wall setbacks! Consider existing trees and proximity to their driplines (indicator of root zones). 

• Where is it most convenient to channel the roof runoff to?  

• Where is the best overflow point on the property?  

• Consider whether the garden will be ‘on display’ for the owner/public? Does the customer want this? 

• • Pay close attention to the bottom area in the design specifications, and where possible, oversize your rain garden a little bit. Inspectors prefer to see something slightly oversized than undersized! 

• • Are you tight on yard space for a rain garden? You can add a cistern or two to your installation if you don’t have enough space for the full size of the rain garden, based on the roof size alone. Playing with the calculator can help you identify creative options for working with smaller yard areas! 

Planting design and aesthetic choices 

Ask your client for their vision – they may have specific ideas up front. Ask your client to send you some photos of the aesthetic/plants they like before designing/choosing plants. 

• Don’t rely only on verbal communication to get a feel for their vision/aesthetic tastes… it is very easy to have different interpretations of the same descriptions. If they identify lots of plants that aren’t well suited to the space (e.g., they want specific sun-loving plants, but their yard is shaded), this is the time to have an open conversation to educate them about good alternatives. 

• Consider timing for raingarden installations 

• • Spring and autumn are best. Try to avoid planting in the summer if possible, or consider plant choices accordingly to improve planting success

• • Consider whether certain plants or trees will do better if planted in their dormant phase, or what will be available at the nurseries.  

• Find out early whether the property owners are avid gardeners or not. Knowing whether they want to be active in maintaining the garden or if they want something low maintenance is critical in your planting design!  

• • Make sure when you discuss the planting design with the property owners that they are committed to any summer watering or other maintenance required during the first few years while the plants are getting established. 

Estimating costs  

• Time: With raingardens, there is always a bit of problem-solving, or something that takes longer than expected. Expect this and give yourself a good buffer upfront! 

• Estimating your soil and mulch needs can take some practice. Check out this tool from the Dirt Exchange to help you calculate your yardage measurements for soil and mulch.

• Plants can be an expensive component of the total installation cost. Consider getting a reseller permit so that you can buy plants from wholesalers. Buying from the retail nurseries costs a lot more. 

Pre-Inspection  

Make use of your inspector’s knowledge! If you are unsure about any elements of your design, take advantage of the free pre-inspection and raise questions with your inspector. They can help you troubleshoot tricky design challenges up front! 

Planning for the excavation phase 

• Call before you dig – it’s always best to check for underground utilities right at the start. Call 811 or visit www.washington811.com. Ask them to mark all utilities for the entire property – having this info upfront is helpful if you need to change your design part way through.  

• Can you relocate excavated soil on-site or will you have to truck it out? Ask the property owner about these options when you do your first walk through. Having to truck away soil can be expensive, time consuming, and could impact your design choices. Re-using the soil onsite is easiest – so be sure to prompt your client to think about other ways they could use the soil, e.g., veggie gardens, etc. If they want it removed, factor these costs into your bid. 

Trenching 

Trenching is harder and more time consuming than many realize.  

• Trench first and then excavate your rain garden. Doing your trenching first can save lots of headaches and re-work. Once you have your pipe trenched and sloped, you can more easily figure out how deep the bottom of your rain garden needs to be and your options for positioning the rain garden. This is especially true if you are trenching long distances.  

• • Make sure your trench is straight. Find the clearest path to your discharge point and use fishing line and marking paint to mark where you need to trench. This avoids the complexity and potential issues around having to join multiple pieces of pipe (e.g., to route the pipe around something) and also reduces your material costs! 

• • Always dig your trench deeper than expected to allow you to fine tune the slope more easily.  

Excavating the rain garden 

• Once your trenching is complete, dig out the bottom area of your rain garden. This ensures that you meet the specification for distance from the inlet pipe to the bottom of the garden. Ensure you have factored in enough depth to meet the requirements regarding bio-retention soil, mulch, ponding and freeboard depths.  

• • Allow extra time for your excavation. You never know what you are going to find (e.g., tree roots, stones/concrete, etc.) so when estimating your time requirements, give yourself a buffer to manage any complexities.  

• After the bottom area is done, slope the sides according to the design specifications. Ensure you leave enough space for the bioretention soil and mulch layers.  

• • You can create a jig that matches the slope specifications to help you quickly and consistently shape the sides of the rain garden. Placing a level on top of the jig helps you make sure you are measuring correctly. Using this tip is much faster than constantly measuring and calculating slope with a yardstick! 

    

• • Tamp more than you think you will need to! You want to make sure the slope is stable and won’t erode.  

• • When building a berm at the top of the rain garden, remember that everything will settle. You don’t want it to be too exaggerated but be very careful not to make the berm too low – it will just become flat over time.  

Dispersion trenches  

• Make sure you ‘armor’ the inlet and outlet/dispersion trench with washed gravel or stream bed cobbles.  

• The dispersion trench should be designed so that in an intense rain event, the outflow isn’t gushing onto the sidewalk or right of way. You want a wider – dispersed – stream of water exiting the rain garden.  

• Be careful to factor in the dispersion trench dimension requirements, including freeboard.  

• • Make sure you give yourself more time than you think for constructing the dispersion trench! With planning, digging, laying landscape fabric and cobbles, it can be more time consuming than expected. One experienced contractor recommended setting aside a whole day for the dispersion trench! So, factor this into your estimate. 

Adding bio-retention soil 

• Once excavated, you can add the layer of bioretention soil. Use your jig to be consistent with your slope. Take photos as you go so you can show your inspector the soil depth before mulching. 

Planting 

• When selecting plants, pay close attention to the recommended plant types for each zone. Consider also whether the rain garden is quite exposed to direct sunlight or shaded. 

• If you have a really big rain garden, consider leaving a small pathway that is unplanted so that owners can easily access different parts of the garden/assess any annual maintenance needs.  

• Try to have a mix of evergreen and deciduous/herbaceous plants so that the client is not looking at a bare hole in the ground for half of the year!  

• After planting, be sure to mulch well on top! Mulch retains moisture, is a weed suppressant, returns nutrients to the soil as it breaks down and looks great. 

• Don’t forget to water well after planting and remind your customers to water, especially during hot weather for the first two years! 

The biggest pro tip: When in doubt, ALWAYS consult the RainWise Design Specifications! 

Some common cistern installation components and processes are hazardous, so taking appropriate precautions is essential. Notably: 

• cutting pipe can expose you to harmful dust and fumes, and 

• pipe primers and cements are quite toxic. 

Ensure you use a well-fitting mask, gloves and goggles/eye protection appropriately throughout the installation. 

• When cutting pipe/plastic think ahead about cleanup for the plastic shreds/particles that this will create.  

• Put a tarp down below you when cutting pipe to catch plastic shreds and dust. Use a shop vacuum or dust pan to capture and dispose of plastic particles as you go. This will reduce the likelihood that you or someone else (including your client’s children or pets) will ingest these substances, and will reduce the risk that these particles enter the broader environment and waterbodies. 

• When doing work on ladders, ensure you have someone to work with who can help keep you safe. Having an extra set of hands is also very helpful when working with long, awkward pieces of pipe.   

• Call before you dig – it’s always best to check for underground utilities right at the start. Call 811 or visit www.washington811.com. Ask them to mark all utilities for the entire property – having this info upfront is helpful if you need to change your design part way through.  

Cistern installations often fail overtime due to poor maintenence, and a few simple choices at installation can dramatically improve the ease of maintaining these systems.  

Make the low-flow orifice accessible 

• The most important piece of the cistern installation is the low-flow orifice. This is the small rubber washer with a precisely-sizedhole that allows the water to drain very slowly out of the cistern during the wet months, or significant rain events. Review the RainWise Design Specifications for this component very carefully! In designing and positioning your cistern installation, make sure that this component is easily accessible for maintenance! If access is inconvenient, it is more likely that it will not be maintainedand the whole system will fail. 

Make the inlet screen easy to clean! 

• Clearing leaves and debris out of inlet screens is the most common type of maintenance required. If you can source metal screens, these can be left open for ease of maintenance. If the screen is plastic, it needs to be closed or it will degrade in the sun. In this context, make sure the cover can be easily removed. This includes properly aligning cover openings and inlet pipes to allow for easy cover removal while also ensuring all waters to enter the cistern easily.

Cistern siting choices 

• There are several things to consider as you plan where to put a cistern, and what type of base or foundation to use. Think about how close you can get to existing side sewer pipes to lessen underground pipe lengths, ensure appropriate setbacks to property lines and utilities, maintenance access (including ease of maintenance for houses, fences, and other structures), and fitting foundations (including proximity to existing walkways or pathways).   

Be clear about the distinction between PVC Schedule 40 (white), Schedule 80 (gray) and SDR 35 PVC piping and their appropriate applications.  

• For above-ground piping which is exposed to sunlight, using Schedule 80 PVC ensures that the pipe won’t fail. If you choose to use white Schedule 40 PVC in this context, it needs to be painted.  

• • While Schedule 80 is more expensive, this reduces steps required for painting which can be quite time consuming! 

• • If you need to paint white PVC, it’s easier to paint it before you install it. Pipes may be painted by the homeowner if the homeowner agrees to perform such work. 

• • ABS can be a good alternative if routing piping along the sides of buildings as it is lighter and easier to work with.  

• • For underground piping (e.g., piping in a buried trench between a cistern and raingarden inlet) unpainted Schedule 40 (white) PVC is fine.  

• • Suggested types of paint that are designed for use on PVC Pipe include Krylon Fusion All‑in‑One, Rust‑Oleum Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover, and Rust‑Oleum Stops Rust for Plastic. 
  • If you paint pipes, take photos as you go so you can show your inspector what type of pipe you used. 

Here are some of our experienced contractors’ favorite tools of the trade:  

Tools for cutting pipes  

• PVC pipe cutter for large-diameter pipe. This is sometimes called a ‘tubing cutter’. This manual tool produces an excellent, precise cut without creating lots of plastic particles or off-gassing fumes. If you are planning to do a lot of cisterns, this tool is indispensable!  

An example of a PVC tubing cutter tool.

• PVC ratcheting pipe cutter for small-diameter pipe. (eg. What is used in the low flow orifice) – This tool, which looks a bit like large pruning shears, offers a really clean cut and not a lot of clean up. 

An example of a PVC ratcheting pipe cutter.

• Hacksaw – this does a fine job for cutting pipe, but it is easy to drift while cutting. Having a crooked end on your pipe can be problematic when fitting pieces of pipe together. Using a hack saw can also create more plastic debris. 

• • Use a pipe strap to mark your cutting line all the way around to give you a clear guide as you cut.  

• Chop Saw – These create fast, clean cuts in piping material, but they also create a lot of plastic shreds/debris and off gassing. For some experienced contractors, this is their least-preferred option. 

• For cleaning pipes after cutting: having a sanding spinner or a file can be helpful. After you cut, there can be plastic shreds or debris on the edge of your pipe. To ensure the best connection, you should file these shards away and slightly round the sharp edges. This will allow the pipe components to slide together properly at joints.  

• In addition to saws, have a few clamps to position your pipes while cutting and gluing. 

• • Having a clamping sawhorse or ‘jaw horse’ is a very helpful tool for cutting or gluing pipe 

• For making holes in cisterns: Get a hole saw that can attach to your screw gun. This will drill the appropriate size hole for your bulkhead attachment.  

• • Choose your bulkhead attachment first, then select a hole saw that is as tight of a fit as possible to the threads of the bulkhead.  

• • Caution!: The cistern is the most expensive component of the installation, so only drill holes if essential! Some cisterns come with pre-drilled holes for overflow and outflow pipes. 

• • Many cisterns will have flattened areas where holes should go. If you make a hole on a rounded side, the bulkheads may not seal properly.   

Some of our experienced contractors recommend the following Oatey brand products, or their equivalents:  

• For joining pieces of ABS black pipe, use ABS cement.  

• If making a connection from ABS to PVC, ensure you have the same size pipes or a coupling. For these applications, use ABS to PVC Green Transition Cement, or similar. 

• For PVC, consider Clear PVC Cleanser and Clear PVC Cement.  

• • You can also use Purple PVC Primer, but using clear will make your installations look a lot nicer, especially if you are new to gluing pipe.  

• If working in wet weather conditions, consider Christy’s Wet or Dry Conditions PVC Cement, or similar products. While this is more expensive, having this as an option is very helpful when doing installations during the wetter months.  

• • You can always ask the property owner if there is a covered place where work on pipe gluing can take place. Sometimes customers are happy for you to use a garage or porch space, or you can set up your own portable canopy on site while working on gluing pipe. If using a client’s space, take care to use drop cloths and take other measures to protect property from any damage! 

• Large projects capturing 2-5k sq ft of roof area. 
• This can be a single property, or several properties owned by the same person or organization.  
• These projects have a big impact on stormwater issues and big rebates are possible!  
• These projects provide great educational opportunities for the wider community. Big roof projects usually have permanent signage. Property owners often host events such as ribbon-cutting celebrations, outreach, and trainings.  
• Big roof installations can bring in other business for you! Local property owners inspired by your big roof project may want to hire you for their own projects.  

• RainWise program staff will be more involved throughout the process. Before starting any work on a big roof project, you should contact rainwise@seattle.gov. 
• You will design the installation with inspectors from the beginning. You may need more rounds of inspection than usual. 
• The relationships between property owners and contractors are different. There are often several decision-makers involved, for example organization boards or committees. There are often formal governance processes to navigate.  
• Expect longer timelines and more communication required. You may need to send lots of reminders. Keeping everyone in the loop and maintaining momentum for the project is a part of your job. 
• Big roof projects are long-term relationships. You will likely need to check on the site and provide maintenance for years to come. This can lead to regular income from scheduled maintenance. 

Big roof projects are exciting! But what does it take to be ‘Big Roof Ready?’  

Consider the questions below to assess your business and consider development priorities. If you want help thinking about next steps for your business, please reach out to the program team! 

Financial readiness 

• A long wait for payment:  Big roof projects can be very lucrative… but they also typically take a long time. Can you stay with a project for several years before being paid? 

• VPO: Big roof clients often want to use the Vendor Payment Option. These projects are expensive up-front, and it can be difficult for small businesses to float these costs. Can your business access enough finance to float tens of thousands of dollars for a few years? 

Capacity for admin and project governance 

• Do you have time to work through formal governance processes with an organization/board? This process can require a lot of time. 

• Can you ‘bring the energy’ to a complex process? There might be changes in governance personnel and you may need to be the one to keep the momentum going! 

Design considerations 

• Are you comfortable sourcing components for large-scale / bespoke installations? 

• Do you have time for many rounds of design revisions with inspectors? 

Capacity and capability for installation effort 

• Do you have the crew or equipment needed for big projects? Are you comfortable operating rented machinery? 

• Drawing on others: Do you know other contractors you could partner with? Do you know how to work with sub-contractors? 

Risk management and insurance 

• Are you appropriately bonded and insured for projects at this scale? Can you get pollution insurance if you need it?